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Amit Aggarwal On What Inspired His Upcoming Collection At Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017

Amit Aggarwal On What Inspired His Upcoming Collection At Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017

Fashion folks will agree that Amit Aggarwal is one Indian couturier with a structured design language, A design graduate from NIFT who once worked with Tarun Tahiliani and in time successfully launched a prêt line AM.IT, as well as a couture line Amit Aggarwal (earlier Morphe), Amit now has a loyal client base across the world especially in India and Europe. His design aesthetic is progressive but what’s commendable is how he keeps the story line in tandem to Indian influences. This time around, the designer has used his signature techniques of industrial pleating and latticing with recycled polymer strips to resurge vintage Benarasi weaves. We caught up with the designer to know more about his Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017 collection titled Monaco from the heart of Kashi. Excerpts from an interview.

Amit Aggarwal Lakme Fashion Week WinterFestive 2017
Sketches from Amit Aggarwal’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection; Amit Aggarwal.

1. Give us an insight of the inspiration behind your Autumn/Winter 17 collection Monaco from the heart of Kashi.

I’m taking our sustainable couture story further with this Autumn/Winter 2017 collection. I’ve continued to procure vintage saris from all over India. And this time we are using brocades from Banaras for bridal couture. The inspiration comes from my transit to Monaco which had very similar connections to my home country in terms of art, culture, and craftsmanship. The interior architecture of the Prince’s Palace of Monaco and the Opera De Monte Carlo, the motifs, carvings, and drapery reminded me of the brocades from Banaras back in India, and my treatment to those that I was already working on. It was this cross-culture blend that created a modern interpretation of a collection that is deeply rooted in our heritage.

2. This particular collection of yours draws influences from both the French Riviera and home-ground… tell us how easy or difficult was this cross-culture blend sartorially?

I haven’t taken French fashion influences but have been inspired by the motif language, which harmoniously blended with the weaves of Banarasi brocades. This marriage of cultural identities allowed for a greater sense of exchange between two histories for a contemporary design ethos.
Amit Aggarwal Lakme Fashion Week 2017
Mood board for Amit Aggarwal’s Monaco from the heart of Kashi.

3. Last season, your show made creative use of unconventional industrial materials. What’s the USP this time around?

This time it is mainly the vintage brocade saris from Banaras, which are restored using our signature technique. Contemporary zardozi embroidery and hand-pleated tape embroideries on these vintage weaves dominate throughout the collection.

4. Tell us of the silhouettes you’ve worked with for this collection.

We’ve designed very contemporary bridal silhouettes, moulded blouses, draped dresses as well as panelled flared skirts that are teamed with constructed jackets and capes.

5. What about the expected price point for this season?

Our prices for couture have always worked for us and continue to be in the same range according to the amount of work and time spent on it.

6. Are there any particular fall trends that we’ll find in this collection of yours?

I think more than a trend, it is the philosophy and practice of sustainability that we all have to bring into our wardrobe choices.